
Making a Cascade Veil with a Pouf
- Determine desired height of pouf by test folding a length of net hand gather 4in. to 8in from folded edge .Position gathered net at back of headpiece; adjust height of pouf and record.
- Cut net with length equal to combined length of each tier plus twice the height of pouf. Fold net and cut rounded corners as previous.
- Fold net at desired height of pouf and length of upper tier, on both sides of veil, place pins at bottom of pouf on lower tier, near edges. Omit step 4 if edge finish is not desired.
- Apply edge finish to right side of lower tier, between pin marks. Apply finish to reverse side of pouf and upper tier; when upper tier is folded over, trim will be on top side of veil. Or omit edge finish in pouf.
- Refold veil as in step 3. Using double strand of thread, hand stitch a gathering row through both layers, with distance from folded edge equal to height of pouf.
- Make headpiece and attach veil. Adjust pouf by separating layers of net.
Tip
Bring a storage box or bag if you plan to detach the veil for the reception. To remove only the veil, leaving the pouf attached to the headpiece, construct them as two separate pieces. Attach the pouf first with hand stitches. Attach the veil with hook and loop tape.
Making a Bouffant Veil
Measure finished length of each tier from point of attachment and add 12in. for bouffant effect. Cut net for each tier, align upper edges.
Fold net to half lengthwise. Place pin 12in. from top on cut edge. Mark gently curved line from pin to top, ending at fold. Cut along curved line.
Align bottoms of tiers, and cut rounded corners. Apply edge finish, if desired.
Hand stitch gathering row 1/4in from upper edge of net using double thread.
Make headpiece. Pull up gathering row to fit headpiece. If desired attach underpouf support. Attach veil to headpiece.
Making a Blusher Veil
- Determine combined length of front blusher and back tier, measuring from where veil will be attached to headpiece; blusher should fall at bustline. Cut net to this length adding 6in. if an underpouf will be used.
- Fold net in half lengthwise, then in half crosswise. Cut rounded corners. Apply edge finish if desired.
- Hand stitch a 72in. gathering row in center portion of veil with distance front edge equal to length of blusher; this leaves equal ungathered areas at sides of veil.
- Make headpiece. Pull up gathers to fit headpiece. Attach veil.
Tip
Experiment how you will style your hair when wearing your veil. For suggestions, take your veil to a salon. Whether you style your hair yourself or have it done professionally, testing various looks beforehand means one less decision on your wedding day.
Edge Finishes
Encase edges in bias binding for a bold tailored finish. Choose a very lightweight natural fiber fabric, like silk shantung. Which will hold a pressed edge and easily conform to curves. Make binding with a finished width of 1/4in. to 1 1/2in.; the wider the edging the bolder the look.
To estimate the number of yards of bias strip needed, add the length of the side and bottom edges of each tier and divide by 36in.. Consult the chart for an estimate of length of bias strip a square of fabric will yield.
Daintily outline the lower edge with satin rattail, #5 pearl cotton, or narrow ribbon. Or apply narrow lace edging to compliment your gown. For a soft curving look, consider a rippled edge, achieved by zigzagging or serging over fishline while stretching the veil. Select 20lb. test fishline for firm ripples.
Bias Strip Yields from 44in. Square
| Finished width |
Cut width |
Yield |
| 1/4 in. |
1 in. |
54 yd. |
| 1/2 in. |
2 in. |
27 yd. |
| 3/4 in. |
3 in. |
18 yd. |
| 1 in. |
4 in. |
13 yd. |
| 1 1/4 in. |
5 in. |
10 3/4 yd. |
| 1 1/2 in. |
6 in. |
9 yd. |
Making a Continuous Bias Binding Strip
- Cut a 44in. square of fabric; trim off selvages. Mark upper and lower edges of square with tape; mark left and right edges with pins. Cut diagonally from top left corner to bottom right corner.
- Flip left triangle over vertically onto right triangle, right sides together, aligning pin marked edges; pin and stitch together, using 1/4in. seam allowance. Press seam open.
- Mark lines across fabric parallel to long diagonal edges, with width as determined in chart.
- Align straight grain edges, right sides together, offsetting marks by one strip width. Stitch and press open. Cut around tube on marked lines, cutting one continuous bias strip. Wrap bias strip loosely onto cardboard for easy use.
- To attach two continuous strips, place end of strips, right sides together, as a right angle; stitch on the lengthwise grain. Trim seam to 1/4in.; press open.
Applying Bias Binding Using Sewing and Gluing Method
- Feed bias strip into bias tape marker, using a pin to get it started. Strip will fold into binding as it is pulled through bias tape marker; press folds into place. With iron resting on binding, gently slide bias tape marker down length of strip; press, but do not stretch bias binding.
- Press binding in half lengthwise, encasing folds. Wrap binding onto cardboard for easier handling.
- Press shape binding to veil edge without puckering. Align raw edge of binding to edge of veil, right sides together. Stitch in well of fold.
- Fold binding over edge of veil to wrong side, aligning top and bottom folds of binding. Dilute flexible fabric glue to spreading consistency. Working in small sections, slip paper towel under raw edge of binding; lightly brush glue onto binding. Reposition and finger press in place.
Applying Bias Binding Using Sewing Method
- Follow step one previous. Press binding in half lengthwise, encasing folds, offsetting one edge by 1/8in. Wrap binding onto cardboard for easier handling.
- Press shape binding to fit veil edge without puckering, with shorter fold on right side. Align raw edge of short side of binding to raw edge of veil, right sides together.
- Fold wider side of binding over edge of veil to wrong side. Stitch in the ditch from wrong side, catching the binding on the back of veil.
Sewing a Rippled Edge by Conventional Machine
- Set machine for narrow zigzag stitch. Attach cording foot if available. At top edge of veil, place fishline 1/2in. from veil edge, leaving a long tail.
- Stitch over fishline, stretching veil as you stitch, overlapping ends. Trim veil close to stitching, do not cut fishline from reel.
- Spread veil over fishline, rippling veil as desired; work from center toward ends. Seal ends with liquid fray preventer, trim fishline.
- Adjust serger for rolled hem stitch ,attach gimp foot if available. Insert fishline through gimp foot [or under back and over front of regular presser foot]; leave long tail. Stitch over fishline about 4 in.
- Place veil under presser foot 1/2in. from edge, stitch, trimming excess veil and keeping fishline between needle and knives, if using regular presser foot.
- Stitch over fishline 4in at end; do not cut fishline from reel. Follow step 3 previous.
- Thread machine with monofilament nylon thread in the top end bobbin. Set machine for zigzag stitch, just wide enough to pass over desired trim. Position rattail or pearl cotton1/2in. from edge of veil. Stitch over rattail or pearl cotton; overlap ends, and seal them with glue. Trim veil close to stitching.
- Place ribbon or lace 1.2in. from edge of veil. Stitch, using straight or zigzag stitch; overlap ends. Trim veil close to stitching.
Sewing a Rippled Edge by Serger
Sewing a Satin Rattail or Pearl Cotton Edge
Sewing a Ribbon or Lace Edge
Tip
Place an emergency kit to take with you to the room where you will dress for the wedding. Include items such as safety pins, needle and thread, bobby pins, double sided tape, makeup, hairspray, and extra hosiery.